Fun! – The Header Dress – Pattern Review: BurdaStyle 01-2010-130

January 9, 2012 in burda, fabric, fun!, pattern review, retro style, sewing

Thanks for all the great feedback on my new layout, I have made the post text font bolder, and hopefully that´s made it easier for you to read.

Today I present to you the first installment in my new segment Fun!. If you are interested in joining in on the fun, you are more than welcome, just grab the code below, paste it in one of your sidebars,  leave a comment about it here, and off you go. I´d love it if you´d tell me if you are joining me, the more the merrier!

<a href=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/2012/01/fun/”><img src=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/fun_button.jpg” alt=”" /></a>

This dress was made on a whim last autumn, but I haven´t actually begun to wear it much until now.

The header dress

The inspiration for this dress is a combination of two things. I really wanted to make a navy dress with lace inspired by this incredible dress that Zoe made, and I thrifted the lace for this dress (it´s really a table cloth) ages ago. My second reason for making this was a longing for clothing with no waist definition. Now, don´t get me wrong, I love high- waistedness, thoroughly documented here, here, here and here, but after a summer of wearing mostly waist-clinching garments, I longed for something that was a bit more relaxed.

Personally, I believe that the main reason for the fashion change from the fifties to the sixties, was women who wanted more breathing space! :-)

Well, here you have it, my review of this pattern, it is yet another BurdaStyle pattern, the only obvious change I made was to skip the sleeves.

BurdaStyle Magazine 01-2010-130 Shift Dress

Pattern size: European 36-44

Avaliability: BurdaStyle Magazine and BurdaStyle.com

Pattern Description: Cap Sleeve Shift Dress

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Apart from the fact that I omitted the sleeves, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn´t follow the instructions much (although I probably should have), but what I used was quite clear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the simplicity of the pattern. A really classic style, that can be used for lots of different styles.

Fabric Used: I used a heavy cotton sateen with quite an amount of stretch, not entirely suitable for this style. I wouldn´t recommend this fabric for this type of dress – try either something really stiff and heavy for a boxy effect, or something with a better drape for a softer shape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I omitted the sleeves, as I didn´t want it for my version, I made an FBA on the bust darts, and because my fabric is stretchy, I omitted the back zipper.

The header dress

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might make it again, perhaps with the sleeves, and I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion: A really simplistic design, and a nice shape for a shift dress. A good pattern!


Cutting fabric for more than one project at a time.

January 3, 2012 in fabric, sewing

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Since I spent most of my sparetime yesterday cutting fabric, I was curious if anyone else does that too? Cut fabric for more than one project at a time, that is?

Yesterday I cut out six projects, two dresses, two skirts, and two shirts for my darling.

I think it´s a good way of saving time, as my dining room table gets to step in and play the role as cutting table, I like it to not be covered in fabric all the time. I also find that it´s easier to begin a new project if it´s already cut and ready.

How about you? Are you one of the lucky one´s with a designated cutting space, or are you stuck with similar solutions to mine? I´d love to know!

A FESA update, a refashion and the pants that almost didn´t come to be.

October 13, 2011 in challenge 2011, color, fabric, fall essentials sew along, refashion, retro style, sewing, Sewing Through The Decades, stash bustin´

First of all, thank you all so much for the lovely comments on my last post, it prompted me to make another refashion of a shirt! This time a less radical change, I just wanted one of my darlings old crisp white shirts to fit me instead of him.

DSCN3793

The shirt tucked into the wool version of my beloved Vogue 8604.

Just so you know, my camera didn´t want to co-operate with me today, so all recent photos are heavily edited…

I wanted to keep the dressy look of this shirt, so I kept the collar, I never wear it closed so I don´t mind that it is a bit big. I love the look of a clean white shirt, and it can be worn in so many different ways! Here are the changes I did:

  • I took in the sleeve and side seams with about 8 cm on each side.
  • I added 12 cm long contour darts on each shirt front
  • I added a 7×4 cm elastic band in the center back
  • I added tucks on the shoulder to rise the shoulder seam. 

That´s pretty much how I changed this shirt, I wanted to keep the length, as I would like to wear it untucked at times as well. I adjusted the sleeve length just by rolling up the sleeves one time the entire width of the cuff, and then closed the buttons.

Elastic band in the back    DSCN3791

Elastics in the back, and a view of the sleeves. 

FESA

There have been some change of plans. I have been working in a steady pace with the garments for the Fall Essentials Sew Along. But I have changed the plan a bit. First, here´s a recap of the original plan:

FESA11

FEFA11_fabricNow, as some of you may know, I´m not much of a muslin sewer, but for this sew along I actually thought I´d stitch up some muslins for some of the items.  The first one I did was the pants. I made them up in a navy blue stretchy cotton sateen. For those of you who followed the Self- Stitched September may know them as the unblogged pants:

DSCN3652

I am very happy that I actually made a muslin (although a wearable one) for these pants, as the fit was WAY off. For the most part I have used Burda patterns for snug fitting pants, and they fit me without any other alteration than the usual 8 cm or so in the length of the leg. This pattern, on the other hand, is from Patrones, and was sooo hard to fit! Everything was off, the rise is extremely low, the waistband was, in my opinion too narrow,  and the legs were too wide. All in all, not the pattern for me. Eventually I got a decent fit, but I will replace the waistband with a wider one both to get the look I am after, and to compensate for the low rise. I don´t know the average height of the Patrone´s models, but I am guessing it is shorter and more petite than Burda´s as the pattern really wasn´t for me. So I decided not to use that pattern for my planned FESA pants. And to use Burda 10-2010-110 instead.

The next thing I did, just to be on the safe side, was to make a shorts version to check the fit of the Burda pattern I chose. The shorts went together smoothly, except that I forgot to add some markings for the pocket placing, and so they are a tiny bit off grain on one of the fronts, but I don´t think it matters much.

SSS´11: Day 27

 The FESA shorts

I am very satisfied with these shorts, but there really are limited opportunities for wearing winter shorts in my life, I don´t need two pairs, so these took the place of the planned Simplicity 3850.

The problem with this change of plan was that I really love the fabric I had planned for the FESA shorts! Enter the pants that almost didn´t come to be.

So here´s the story: Last year, when I was struggling to make Vouge 8604 seen above, the one failed version I made was from a yummy mustard wool that looks a lot like this one, and the smart people over at Gorgeous Fabrics call it a nubby wool tweed, so lets call it that… There was enough fabric in this failed pair of trousers to fit another, more slim pair onto it. And so I did. Enthusiastically, I stitched up the new pair, but when I was to try them on, I didn´t understand, they were too small! I went back and checked the pattern instructions, and there it was, in black and white “only suitable for fabric with some stretch…” Oh the frustration! I threw them into the back of my UFO pile and didn´t want to see them again. Until this autumn.

DSCN3783

 Can you guess the photo inspiration?

I pulled these out again in September, made a new seam as far out in the seam allowance as possible, ripped the old one, attached the waistband, and voilá! They fit! :-) Although I must admit that they are a bit tight, not to be worn for the holiday feasts…

 DSCN3788

The pants that almost didn´t come to be makes the perfect team together with my FESA silk blouse refahsion as well. I won´t bore you with the details of this refashion, it is more or less the same procedure as on the other recent refashions. But I will mention that I didn´t use the planned pattern for it, as it wasn´t enough fabric…;-)

So as you can see, there has been some change of plans, but I am happy with them. I will announce more changes, but I´ll save that for another day!

Until next time, happy stitching!

 

Where´s my stash at?

September 15, 2011 in challenge 2011, fabric, stash bustin´

Stash

I was trying to make a pair of shorts the other day, and I thought that I MUST have some appropriate fabric in my stash. After all, shorts doesn´t take that much fabric! I did find some fabric for my shorts. I also found the insight of the necessity of going through my stash. Again.

A little warning for the newbie-sewer: I have only been sewing since 2005, and on top of that, really haven´t made a conscious choice to build a stash. And, I´m not especially rich or anything, I can´t buy everything I want. I usually get my stash on sale or I thrift. Still, my stash has grown completely out of control! So be ware!

DSCN3596

The good thing about fabric, is that it doesn´t take up that much room. The bad thing about fabric, is that is doesn´t take up that much room. Each individual piece, that is. But when all of these little pieces come togheter, it´s one BIG party. Too big for my appartement.

So I am taking control over the situation.

I have detected five main components of my stash, where the first and second parts are the absolutely largest ones:

  1. Apparel fabric
  2. Refashioning projects
  3. Muslin fabric
  4. Quilting cottons
  5. Home decoration fabric

Let´s have some cake on that:

From these findings, I draw the conclusion that my favorite past time activity is to sew clothing…. To get some system in all of this, I sorted my apparel fabric in first two parts, then in several smaller ones.

Let´s add a flow chart as well, just for the fun of it:

(Click the image for a better view)

After having sorted through everything, I feel much more at ease. I have pulled out all the fabric for stuff I want to make this season, and put everything else in clearly marked boxes. I now even have a designated place for my interfacing! I never had that before. Oh the joys of organizing!  I got rid of all of the smallest scraps and bits and pieces, and now that everything is organized, I actually know that I for instance have lining for every pocket I would want to make in the near future, I´ve got some seriously great looking silk fabrics I´m dying to use, and I can make several coats and jackets for the upcoming colder season. Who new?

In addition to my newly organized stash, there are some gorgeous fabrics just waiting to be shipped to me at my parents house as well. My mother did some de-stashing this summer, and amongst other stuff there was a little something for me. Where I will place all of that fabric when it comes my way, will be a problem for later. For now, I am happily sewing through my stash!

What to do with precious fabrics?

April 8, 2011 in challenge 2011, Colette Spring Palette 2011 Challenge, fabric, patterns

My blue cotton sateen

My perfect fabric…

I have this cotton sateen fabric in the most perfect blue color. When I was in New York, I spent something like 3 hours at Mood Fabrics. I just soaked in all of the colors, prints, notions – everything. I bought some yardage (actually meterage- they easily helped me convert from meter to yard. Such a nice staff!).

One of the fabrics I bought was the mentioned cotton sateen. The blue is as close to Majorelle Blue (that I encountered in Marrakech) as I´ve seen on a fabric. It´s perfect!  I originally thought of making a pair of shorts from it, then I went ahead and made a pair of blue shorts out of old scraps instead. So, I´ve been envisioning a lovely blue dress with a white lace appliqué for a while now. Sadly, I don´t have enough fabric for the dress. Which got me thinking again.

My dream dress

The dream dress.

Simplicity 1995

Simplicity 1995, view 1, an alternative to the dream dress. This one I have enough fabric for.

What is the best way of using a precious fabric? Is it to make something fantastically beautiful of it (read party dress), or make an everyday garment so that I can enjoy the color of the fabric more often? Lately I have been leaning towards solution number two, to make something I´ll wear a lot. Like a pencil skirt or a pair of pants, for instance.

Skirt from Burda 02-2011-107 Skirt from Burda 02-2011-107

Another alternative- make a basic pencil skirt I know I´ll use a lot! (This one is Burdastyle 02-2011-107)

What do you think? Do you have something extra precious in your stash that you don´t know what to do with?

Beautiful roses!

Random pic of roses in a matching color.

Stash busted!

March 28, 2011 in challenge 2011, fabric, stash bustin´

Just a quick little note about my Stash Bustin´Challenge. I went to the fabric store to pick up some thread and interfacing, and they (those evil temptresses) had a sale. And they had this beautiful fabric for sale, called Nautical from Holland Art.

Stash busted!

And I just could hold myself. I just couldn´t resist the cute print. What can I say? Sailboats! Anchors! Seagulls! Rudders! Ahhh. I am a bad stash buster. You could say that I am stash busted! (but it was totally worth it…)

Stash busted! Stash busted! DSCN3182