That´s Sew Cinematic: The plan.

March 23, 2012 in inspiration, retro style, sewing, That´s Sew Cinematic

 

So, a little late in the Cinematic Sewing Game, I return with some plans for my spring sewing. According to the meteorologists, the weather in Sweden is three weeks early, and we are experiencing some wonderfully sunny and warm days. Maybe it´s time to bring out the summer wardrobe? Or maybe it´s time to make some spring-y new garments?

Choosing what to make for this Sew- Along was not easy, and my original list was WAAAY too long. I´ve chosen some key items that will fit in with the rest of my wardrobe, and with my fun!- palette as well. A lot of red is important, and also a little blue bolero for those chilly spring evenings. The shorts are for the warmer days in May and June.

The inspiration comes from The Rum Diary (2011), Hudsucker Proxy (1994), The Last Time I Saw Paris (1954) and The Women on the 6th Floor (2010). All of them great movies, with thought through costume design. What´s not to love?

So, how are your sewing plans coming along? I´d love to know!

Have a great weekend!

Fun! – The Header Dress – Pattern Review: BurdaStyle 01-2010-130

January 9, 2012 in burda, fabric, fun!, pattern review, retro style, sewing

Thanks for all the great feedback on my new layout, I have made the post text font bolder, and hopefully that´s made it easier for you to read.

Today I present to you the first installment in my new segment Fun!. If you are interested in joining in on the fun, you are more than welcome, just grab the code below, paste it in one of your sidebars,  leave a comment about it here, and off you go. I´d love it if you´d tell me if you are joining me, the more the merrier!

<a href=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/2012/01/fun/”><img src=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/fun_button.jpg” alt=”" /></a>

This dress was made on a whim last autumn, but I haven´t actually begun to wear it much until now.

The header dress

The inspiration for this dress is a combination of two things. I really wanted to make a navy dress with lace inspired by this incredible dress that Zoe made, and I thrifted the lace for this dress (it´s really a table cloth) ages ago. My second reason for making this was a longing for clothing with no waist definition. Now, don´t get me wrong, I love high- waistedness, thoroughly documented here, here, here and here, but after a summer of wearing mostly waist-clinching garments, I longed for something that was a bit more relaxed.

Personally, I believe that the main reason for the fashion change from the fifties to the sixties, was women who wanted more breathing space! :-)

Well, here you have it, my review of this pattern, it is yet another BurdaStyle pattern, the only obvious change I made was to skip the sleeves.

BurdaStyle Magazine 01-2010-130 Shift Dress

Pattern size: European 36-44

Avaliability: BurdaStyle Magazine and BurdaStyle.com

Pattern Description: Cap Sleeve Shift Dress

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Apart from the fact that I omitted the sleeves, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn´t follow the instructions much (although I probably should have), but what I used was quite clear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the simplicity of the pattern. A really classic style, that can be used for lots of different styles.

Fabric Used: I used a heavy cotton sateen with quite an amount of stretch, not entirely suitable for this style. I wouldn´t recommend this fabric for this type of dress – try either something really stiff and heavy for a boxy effect, or something with a better drape for a softer shape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I omitted the sleeves, as I didn´t want it for my version, I made an FBA on the bust darts, and because my fabric is stretchy, I omitted the back zipper.

The header dress

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might make it again, perhaps with the sleeves, and I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion: A really simplistic design, and a nice shape for a shift dress. A good pattern!


Pattern Review: BurdaStyle Magazine 03-2010-101A aka The Summer Coat.

October 27, 2011 in pattern review, patterns, prints, retro, retro style, sewing, Uncategorized


The summer coat

Back in May, after getting the flu from biking on a chilly night, I decided I needed a summer coat. Unfortunately, I lost my sewing mojo over the summer, and so this coat wasn´t finished until last week. The idea of this coat is to have something to throw over thin summer dresses in those cold summer nights we have up here in May and June. After taking these photos, I discovered that the coat is wearable in October as well, although teamed with some layers underneath, hat, scarf and mittens! :-)

My initial idea was to make it out of linen, or something neutral colored, but when I stumbled upon this fabric when I visited a friend in Paris in June, I was sold. The fabric, together with the style of coat is a wee bit over the top, and must be carefully teamed with other garments to not look crazy. We discussed this during SSS, you know, where do the line go between “retro vibe”, and “costumey”? I guess it´s all about accessorizing, and how a garment is worn, as well as that my own personal style limits are pushed further and further the older I get.:-) How do you resonate about incorporating vintage looks into everyday outfits?

Pattern size: 36-44

Pattern type: Raglan sleeve lined coat

Rating: Highly recommend

Pattern Description: Raglan sleeves, large Peter Pan collar and 7/8 sleeves. Fully lined and with welt pockets.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it Yup. Pretty much.

Were the instructions easy to follow? As per usual, I had my Vogue Sewing handbook at hand at all times when things got confusing in the pattern instructions, mainly for the welt pockets and the collar attachment.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really love the simplicity of the pattern and the clean lines. I also adore the collar, and the sleeve length. What´s not to like?

The summer coat

 Pocket detail

Fabric Used: I used a cotton jacquard I got at Les Coupons de St. Pierre in Paris. The fabric is navy blue and silver, and is actually equally gorgeous on the wrong side of the fabric. I had some initial thoughts about leaving it sans lining, but then thought I would get more wear from it if I did line it. The lining fabric is a navy rayon lining.

The summer coat

 A close up of the fabric

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did a FBA on the bust dart. Otherwise, the only design detail I changed was to not roll up the sleeves.

The summer coat

Out for a stroll in the Botanical Gardens.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? If I need this type of coat again, I will definitely pull out this pattern. The jacquard is rather stiff, but I imagine this coat getting a completely different look in a more flowy fabric. I can absolutely recommend this to others!

Conclusion:  A pretty, easy to make coat in an over-the-top fabric for those days when a little dressing up is in order!

The summer coatWow, so that collar really needs a better pressing! :-)

 

A FESA update, a refashion and the pants that almost didn´t come to be.

October 13, 2011 in challenge 2011, color, fabric, fall essentials sew along, refashion, retro style, sewing, Sewing Through The Decades, stash bustin´

First of all, thank you all so much for the lovely comments on my last post, it prompted me to make another refashion of a shirt! This time a less radical change, I just wanted one of my darlings old crisp white shirts to fit me instead of him.

DSCN3793

The shirt tucked into the wool version of my beloved Vogue 8604.

Just so you know, my camera didn´t want to co-operate with me today, so all recent photos are heavily edited…

I wanted to keep the dressy look of this shirt, so I kept the collar, I never wear it closed so I don´t mind that it is a bit big. I love the look of a clean white shirt, and it can be worn in so many different ways! Here are the changes I did:

  • I took in the sleeve and side seams with about 8 cm on each side.
  • I added 12 cm long contour darts on each shirt front
  • I added a 7×4 cm elastic band in the center back
  • I added tucks on the shoulder to rise the shoulder seam. 

That´s pretty much how I changed this shirt, I wanted to keep the length, as I would like to wear it untucked at times as well. I adjusted the sleeve length just by rolling up the sleeves one time the entire width of the cuff, and then closed the buttons.

Elastic band in the back    DSCN3791

Elastics in the back, and a view of the sleeves. 

FESA

There have been some change of plans. I have been working in a steady pace with the garments for the Fall Essentials Sew Along. But I have changed the plan a bit. First, here´s a recap of the original plan:

FESA11

FEFA11_fabricNow, as some of you may know, I´m not much of a muslin sewer, but for this sew along I actually thought I´d stitch up some muslins for some of the items.  The first one I did was the pants. I made them up in a navy blue stretchy cotton sateen. For those of you who followed the Self- Stitched September may know them as the unblogged pants:

DSCN3652

I am very happy that I actually made a muslin (although a wearable one) for these pants, as the fit was WAY off. For the most part I have used Burda patterns for snug fitting pants, and they fit me without any other alteration than the usual 8 cm or so in the length of the leg. This pattern, on the other hand, is from Patrones, and was sooo hard to fit! Everything was off, the rise is extremely low, the waistband was, in my opinion too narrow,  and the legs were too wide. All in all, not the pattern for me. Eventually I got a decent fit, but I will replace the waistband with a wider one both to get the look I am after, and to compensate for the low rise. I don´t know the average height of the Patrone´s models, but I am guessing it is shorter and more petite than Burda´s as the pattern really wasn´t for me. So I decided not to use that pattern for my planned FESA pants. And to use Burda 10-2010-110 instead.

The next thing I did, just to be on the safe side, was to make a shorts version to check the fit of the Burda pattern I chose. The shorts went together smoothly, except that I forgot to add some markings for the pocket placing, and so they are a tiny bit off grain on one of the fronts, but I don´t think it matters much.

SSS´11: Day 27

 The FESA shorts

I am very satisfied with these shorts, but there really are limited opportunities for wearing winter shorts in my life, I don´t need two pairs, so these took the place of the planned Simplicity 3850.

The problem with this change of plan was that I really love the fabric I had planned for the FESA shorts! Enter the pants that almost didn´t come to be.

So here´s the story: Last year, when I was struggling to make Vouge 8604 seen above, the one failed version I made was from a yummy mustard wool that looks a lot like this one, and the smart people over at Gorgeous Fabrics call it a nubby wool tweed, so lets call it that… There was enough fabric in this failed pair of trousers to fit another, more slim pair onto it. And so I did. Enthusiastically, I stitched up the new pair, but when I was to try them on, I didn´t understand, they were too small! I went back and checked the pattern instructions, and there it was, in black and white “only suitable for fabric with some stretch…” Oh the frustration! I threw them into the back of my UFO pile and didn´t want to see them again. Until this autumn.

DSCN3783

 Can you guess the photo inspiration?

I pulled these out again in September, made a new seam as far out in the seam allowance as possible, ripped the old one, attached the waistband, and voilá! They fit! :-) Although I must admit that they are a bit tight, not to be worn for the holiday feasts…

 DSCN3788

The pants that almost didn´t come to be makes the perfect team together with my FESA silk blouse refahsion as well. I won´t bore you with the details of this refashion, it is more or less the same procedure as on the other recent refashions. But I will mention that I didn´t use the planned pattern for it, as it wasn´t enough fabric…;-)

So as you can see, there has been some change of plans, but I am happy with them. I will announce more changes, but I´ll save that for another day!

Until next time, happy stitching!

 

Pattern Review: New Look 6000

August 23, 2011 in pattern review, patterns, retro style, sewing

One of the best things about the sewing community is, in my opinion, pattern reviews. I love the fact that I can visit PatternReview, BurdaStyle, My Sewing Circle or the vintage pattern wiki and find out whether a pattern is worth making or not. So in an effort to try and contribute more frequently to that community myself, I will post reviews of patterns I have used, and add them to PR as well. My ambition is to add at least one review per week. We´ll see if I manage to do just that! :-)  

New Look 6000 view CNew Look 6000

 Pattern Description: 

Misses’ retro style dress with front, sleeve and neck variations.
Pattern Sizing:
4-16
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Absolutely. I made view C in the wool twill, and view A in a rayon knit.

Technical drawing of NL6000

Were the instructions easy to follow?
This pattern was an absolute delight to follow, the instructions were easy to grasp and I had no concerns what so ever.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I really loved the fact that the paper pattern had separate front pieces for each size. No tracing necessary. I also loved the construction of the sleeve cuffs and the neck. Another great detail is the pleated waist.
Fabric Used:
I used a thrifted wool fabric, twill woven. A quite sturdy material, but great for this type of dress. I have also made this dress using a knit rayon fabric with good results, I just went down one size!

MMMar´11: Day 8Version no. 2

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a FBA by adding bust darts. it worked like a charm. Other than that, I didn´t do any alterations.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I have already made two versions of this dress, and will probably make another one in the nearby future. I will definitely recommend this!
Conclusion:
A super flattering dress and a great pattern, that I absolutely will recommend to others!