Hem…

January 22, 2012 in sewing

Roobedoo posted a question on my last post regarding the length of the header dress: She wondered wether this was a new length for me. An excellent question, and I know she has elaborated a bit on the topic of work appropriate lengths on a recent blog post of hers, you should definitely check it out!

To answer the question, the answer is no, this is not a new length for me, but the fun thing about this question is that it got me thinking about hemlines. What is a good skirt length for me? And what is a good skirt length for others? I went through my closet, and pulled out some skirts I have made the last couple of years to see if there were any similarities in lenghts:

I have taken a pic of all skirts wearing the same top, tights and shoes, just to make it easier to compare the lengths.

The results are inconclusive. I seem to wear all kinds of lengths! Although most of my skirts are “around knee”, I have some that are shorter as well, for instance, I have made Burda 8237  three or four times, so shorter lengths attract me as well as longer. The funny thing is that a lot of the skirts I make come out shorter than I intend. I am ten centimeters taller than the average height that the pattern companies uses, and so I really should add at least ten centimeters when I make skirts, but I end up adding too little, and most of my skirts thus become shorter than I plan for them to be.

I love pencil skirts that has a mid-calf hem line, but I never seem to manage to make one for myself. Actually, taking these pictures of myself, made me aware that I think that my skirts are longer then they in reality are! Both of the Vi 3324 patterns for instance, are intended to be tea-length. Yeah, right. They are both obviously ending just below knee. :-) The same goes for Burda 02-2011-107 too. I was supposed to make it below knee, but there was too little fabric. Note to self: If I want a skirt to be both high-waisted and mid- calf, I need 90 cm of fabric, not 60 as I in my imagination think I need…

It´s funny that a seemingly insignificant detail of a garment like the length can cause such a stir. I mean, how many other parts of a garment have been affected by the stock market?  Some women are very specific about their hemlines, I have friends who only have a small flexibility between just below knee and mid-thigh, others never go above knee, then there are even those who never wears anything but maxi skirts. Fascinating.

With all that said, I fuss very little about the length of my skirts. I seem to wear whatever length. I am aware of that having those extra ten centimeters makes more hemlines available for me than for others. And so to my next point.

I try to sew for others as often as I can, but most of my friends and family live far away, so fitting becomes difficult. And since I know that hemline placement is an issue for others, it´s tricky to know how the length of a garment will look on that person. I know that there are some opinions out there that say that shorter women should stick to knee- or above knee length. What do you think, are there any general rules of what is flattering on women of different heights and shapes, do you think, or is it a individual thing, depending purely on the tastes of the specific woman? I´d love to hear you opinion on this, and also what your favorite skirt lengths are!

I for one, will try and make at least one mid-calf pencil skirt this year!

Fun! – The Header Dress – Pattern Review: BurdaStyle 01-2010-130

January 9, 2012 in burda, fabric, fun!, pattern review, retro style, sewing

Thanks for all the great feedback on my new layout, I have made the post text font bolder, and hopefully that´s made it easier for you to read.

Today I present to you the first installment in my new segment Fun!. If you are interested in joining in on the fun, you are more than welcome, just grab the code below, paste it in one of your sidebars,  leave a comment about it here, and off you go. I´d love it if you´d tell me if you are joining me, the more the merrier!

<a href=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/2012/01/fun/”><img src=”http://solvi.se/delfinelise/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/fun_button.jpg” alt=”" /></a>

This dress was made on a whim last autumn, but I haven´t actually begun to wear it much until now.

The header dress

The inspiration for this dress is a combination of two things. I really wanted to make a navy dress with lace inspired by this incredible dress that Zoe made, and I thrifted the lace for this dress (it´s really a table cloth) ages ago. My second reason for making this was a longing for clothing with no waist definition. Now, don´t get me wrong, I love high- waistedness, thoroughly documented here, here, here and here, but after a summer of wearing mostly waist-clinching garments, I longed for something that was a bit more relaxed.

Personally, I believe that the main reason for the fashion change from the fifties to the sixties, was women who wanted more breathing space! :-)

Well, here you have it, my review of this pattern, it is yet another BurdaStyle pattern, the only obvious change I made was to skip the sleeves.

BurdaStyle Magazine 01-2010-130 Shift Dress

Pattern size: European 36-44

Avaliability: BurdaStyle Magazine and BurdaStyle.com

Pattern Description: Cap Sleeve Shift Dress

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Apart from the fact that I omitted the sleeves, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn´t follow the instructions much (although I probably should have), but what I used was quite clear.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the simplicity of the pattern. A really classic style, that can be used for lots of different styles.

Fabric Used: I used a heavy cotton sateen with quite an amount of stretch, not entirely suitable for this style. I wouldn´t recommend this fabric for this type of dress – try either something really stiff and heavy for a boxy effect, or something with a better drape for a softer shape.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I omitted the sleeves, as I didn´t want it for my version, I made an FBA on the bust darts, and because my fabric is stretchy, I omitted the back zipper.

The header dress

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might make it again, perhaps with the sleeves, and I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion: A really simplistic design, and a nice shape for a shift dress. A good pattern!


Cutting fabric for more than one project at a time.

January 3, 2012 in fabric, sewing

Sencha options

Since I spent most of my sparetime yesterday cutting fabric, I was curious if anyone else does that too? Cut fabric for more than one project at a time, that is?

Yesterday I cut out six projects, two dresses, two skirts, and two shirts for my darling.

I think it´s a good way of saving time, as my dining room table gets to step in and play the role as cutting table, I like it to not be covered in fabric all the time. I also find that it´s easier to begin a new project if it´s already cut and ready.

How about you? Are you one of the lucky one´s with a designated cutting space, or are you stuck with similar solutions to mine? I´d love to know!

Fun!

January 2, 2012 in color, fun!, inspiration, sewing, spring

First of all: Happy New Year, everyone! I sincerely hope that this will be a wonderful year for all!

The last couple of years, I have been focusing on putting together a thought-through and balanced wardrobe, but this year, in 2012 I am going for the fun!

As I now have a closet full of practical everyday wear, I want to focus more on unique clothing, and on evening wear. Updressed casual daytime clothing is where I excel, but I´d like to not have to rummage my closets in panic each time I´m going to a party or I´m going out for drinks. I usually end up in black, and although I love black, it´s not really representative for me to always wear black – I love color too!

So here are the colors of my Fun!-palette. These colors are bright and fun, and I love to wear them. The emerald-ish green color represents everything green in my plans. I have a couple of different fabrics in a range of greens and teal, and I want to wear more of them! I used to wear red all the time. But as my wardrobe is slowly changing into a handmade one, the red didn´t come along! This has a lot to do with the fact that I´ve had such a hard time finding red fabric, so when I´ve finally found some, I have been excused from my Stash Bustin´and have bought a couple of meters. The navy blue and the eggshell white are both staples in my wardrobe, and the coral is so fresh and spring-y. I have one particular coral colored fabric that I´ve been wanting to use for ages! This is the time for it! :-)

When it comes down to picking patterns, that will be more difficult (yet Fun!), because there are so many gorgeous ones to choose from, and I really want to explore unique styles and techniques. One guideline will be Sewing trough the Decades as I still love to explore patterns from different eras and styles.

So there you have it, I am going to have some fun this year! Hope you will too! :-)

Fall Essentials Sew Along: The Summary

December 9, 2011 in fall essentials sew along, sewing

Although I haven´t made everything I planned on making, and even if I have made some changes, I feel that I have completed the Fall Essential Sew Along. It´s been so much fun to see what everyone have been doing over at the Flickr group, and reading all the blog posts! I love these types of sew-alongs, where we all just cheer each other, and everyone can sew in their own tempo. It fits my schedule perfectly, as I have some of spare time in certain times of the year, and zero in other.

Just to refresh your memories, dear readers, this is what my original FESA- plan looked like:

FESA11
FESA11_fabric

Now, I made some changes during the fall, and you can read all about my different choices here.

I ended up not using the houndstooth fabric and one of the dress patterns. I do plan on using both the gorgeous fabric and the pattern, but I´ve decided that fabric and pattern didn´t work together that well. I want to make a little outfit with a skirt and jacket out of the houndstooth fabric, and I am itching to make a red dress pretty much like the one on the cover of Simplicity 7766, but I don´t have an appropriate fabric in my stash, so I´ll have to go hunting for one, if I´m going to be able to make it.

Out of all the items I made, the BurdaStyle dress is the one item I´ve used the most. I wear it all the time! I work from home a couple of days of the week, and there isn´t much that can compare in comfiness to a knit dress, warm tights and a cardigan! The yellow shirt is what have gotten the least wear, I´m not quite sure why, but I´ve been in a casual dressing mood of late, and silk shirts doesn´t really fit into that category. I am sure I´ll get more use for it when I change into another, more up-dressed mood.

Here you have them, all of my FESA- items in one collage:

Fall Essentials Sew Along 2011

 

As you see, I´ve added my Tabby Tam as well, as I thought it fitted into the color scheme rather well. It´s been great fun sewing and knitting this autumn, and a big thanks to Ali, Sarah and Alessa for arranging the Sew-Along!

If you are participating in this or other challenges, how are you doing? Have you been making any changes in your plans?

Happy sewing!

 

FESA: The corduroy pants

November 11, 2011 in challenge 2011, color, fall essentials sew along, pantalon, pattern review, patterns, sewing, stash bustin´, Thrifts

Edit: I had no idea, but a post over at the Coletterie stated that it is Corduroy Appreciation Day today! Fitting, no?

So, I finally finished my corduroy pants! I´ve been wanting to make a rust colored pair since seeing Carolyn´s version. I have already told you about the beginnings of these pants, so here comes the finished product.

FESA: The corduroy trousers

 

I used BurdaStyle Magazine 10-2010-110, omitting any back pockets and leather details. Just as for the shorts I made using this pattern, I got good help on zipper insertion from sewing goddess Sandra Betzina in this video over at Threads.

I am pleased with the final product, and they came out the way I wanted them to be, but I am reminded, while wearing them, that I am more comfortable with a side zipper. I just feel more at ease having the zipper out of the way! So I´ve actually started on another pair of corduroy´s – with a side zip…

On the pictures I wear them with a knit top I made from a scrap of the same fabric I used for the knit dress.

 BurdaStyle Magazine 10-2010-110 

Pattern size: 34-42

Avaliability: BurdaStyle Magazine

Pattern type: Pants

Rating: Highly recommend

Pattern Description: Flat fronted, mid-rise trousers with faced waist, fly front, slanted hip pockets, back single welt pockets, underlap with button for internal closure, outer tap with button for another waist closure.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? If I ignore the fact that I did some changes, yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn´t really follow the instructions, as I wasn´t going to have all the details that is included in this pattern. But the instructions seems to be quite thorough, when I look at them in magazine!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the leg finish, and the side pockets. I also love the rise. On second thought I am not too fond of the front fly zipper, but that is only my personal taste, and has nothing to do with the quality of the pattern!

FESA: The corduroy trousers
Fabric Used: I used a thrifted corduroy fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I used a different zipper insertion method, I omitted the outer tap with button in the waist, and I omitted the leather placket on the legs, and I also didn´t include the back pockets, all of which makes my version of this pattern much easier than the original.

FESA: The corduroy trousers

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? As I have already made the shorts from this pattern, I think I might not use this again, but you never know? I will recommend it to others who want a pair of pants in this style!

Conclusion: A well constructed pattern with lots of options for unique details!

FESA: The corduroy trousers